CARING FOR YOUR GARDEN
Learning how to properly maintain your garden takes patience, time, and effort.
Besides giving a plant proper light for its species or variety, watering is a critical component to plant care. Some varieties are more susceptible to damage due to improper watering than others, but in the first year of planting most all plants require sufficient water, particularly during the hot summer months. Plants can suffer as equally - and sometimes more - from over watering instead of underwatering. Despite its importance, it is also really difficult to tell someone how to water properly. There are so many variables that go into watering, including the equipment used. All landscapes are different and have different watering needs.
Plants should be checked at minimum once per week for water conditions, and I would recommend more often for first-year plants that are struggling through a dry and hot spell. In my part of Ohio, we typically have a pretty wet Spring in April and proper watering isn't generally an issue until early to late May. Every season is different. You should check the soil around the plant. Stick your finger in the soil and if it appears dry to the touch several inches down, water the plant deeply (for a long time). In most cases watering for a longer period of time can be more effective than providing smaller, more-frequents waterings. First-year plants will probably benefit from both frequent and deep waterings depending on the variety in order to become well established. Plants that are covered by roof overhangs of your home, or that face the side of the home that weather does not typically come from (here rain typically comes from the West), may need to be checked better than other plants because gutters can divert water and wind can carry water away from those plants leaving them drier than other parts of your garden.
Soil types also hold water differently. Clay soils, like my own, tend to hold water and need watering less often, but in the hot summer days can dry out and become hydrophobic leading to water runoff. This is why deep waterings are important. Loose soils, like sand, drain water quickly and require more frequent watering. Heavy clay soil can also hold water and prevent drainage. I've killed plenty of hydrangeas, WHICH LOVE WATER, in my clay soil because of improper drainage. Sometimes too much water can be shown through yellowing leaves, but it's not always the case. In my instance my hydrangeas started to droop (a sign that typically indicates not enough water) when the soil was holding too much water.
Sometimes containers need watering once, or maybe even twice daily, depending on their size and location. It's very much trial and error and something that all gardeners and beginners struggle with. It takes time to perfect based on your own soil conditions and equipment you choose to use.
If you watch my YouTube channel, you know I'm a proponent of drip irrigation. You can check out my page all about gettings started with drip irrigation below or located in the DIY section. I choose drip because it's easy and more convenient to direct water to each individual plant than watering areas of your bed that don't need water. It also, surprisingly, helps inhibit weed growth since you are not providing water to germinate weeds seeds in open areas of your garden. A heavy layer of mulch (3-4 inches) can help conserve water by reducing evaporation and suppressing weeds.
Different varieties of lawns need have different water needs. Bluegrass is a thirsty grass, and fescue tends to be a little less thirsty. New varieties of drought-resistant seed are being bred, but a good rule of thumb is that your lawn needs one inch of water per week to thrive. If your lawn is new (whether by seed or by sod), it will need more frequent watering to establish. Those grass seedlings and freshly sodded lawns have less root depth and until those roots can penetrate the ground sufficiently to access more water reserves, they will need more frequent applications of water.
Plants should be checked at minimum once per week for water conditions, and I would recommend more often for first-year plants that are struggling through a dry and hot spell. In my part of Ohio, we typically have a pretty wet Spring in April and proper watering isn't generally an issue until early to late May. Every season is different. You should check the soil around the plant. Stick your finger in the soil and if it appears dry to the touch several inches down, water the plant deeply (for a long time). In most cases watering for a longer period of time can be more effective than providing smaller, more-frequents waterings. First-year plants will probably benefit from both frequent and deep waterings depending on the variety in order to become well established. Plants that are covered by roof overhangs of your home, or that face the side of the home that weather does not typically come from (here rain typically comes from the West), may need to be checked better than other plants because gutters can divert water and wind can carry water away from those plants leaving them drier than other parts of your garden.
Soil types also hold water differently. Clay soils, like my own, tend to hold water and need watering less often, but in the hot summer days can dry out and become hydrophobic leading to water runoff. This is why deep waterings are important. Loose soils, like sand, drain water quickly and require more frequent watering. Heavy clay soil can also hold water and prevent drainage. I've killed plenty of hydrangeas, WHICH LOVE WATER, in my clay soil because of improper drainage. Sometimes too much water can be shown through yellowing leaves, but it's not always the case. In my instance my hydrangeas started to droop (a sign that typically indicates not enough water) when the soil was holding too much water.
Sometimes containers need watering once, or maybe even twice daily, depending on their size and location. It's very much trial and error and something that all gardeners and beginners struggle with. It takes time to perfect based on your own soil conditions and equipment you choose to use.
If you watch my YouTube channel, you know I'm a proponent of drip irrigation. You can check out my page all about gettings started with drip irrigation below or located in the DIY section. I choose drip because it's easy and more convenient to direct water to each individual plant than watering areas of your bed that don't need water. It also, surprisingly, helps inhibit weed growth since you are not providing water to germinate weeds seeds in open areas of your garden. A heavy layer of mulch (3-4 inches) can help conserve water by reducing evaporation and suppressing weeds.
Different varieties of lawns need have different water needs. Bluegrass is a thirsty grass, and fescue tends to be a little less thirsty. New varieties of drought-resistant seed are being bred, but a good rule of thumb is that your lawn needs one inch of water per week to thrive. If your lawn is new (whether by seed or by sod), it will need more frequent watering to establish. Those grass seedlings and freshly sodded lawns have less root depth and until those roots can penetrate the ground sufficiently to access more water reserves, they will need more frequent applications of water.
Depending on when the tree or shrub is planted, check your plants weekly. While I don't recommend planting in July or August depending on your location and how hot your climate is, sometimes it is necessary. In those cases check much more often. If rainfall is insufficient, water plants thoroughly. Remember a deep longer watering is helpful to saturate the rootball rather than a short watering. Keep the hose on a low flow at the rootball of the plant for a longer period than a higher flow for a shorter period. Runoff can occur with too much flow, and you really want the actual rootball of the plant to get the benefits of the watering. Like lawns, trees and shrubs often need one inch of water or rainfall per week during the growing season, and more during the hottest parts of summer or in a drought depending on the variety type. If you haven't received rainfall recently, your plants likely need a long slow drink.
My very least favorite task, but the task that is probably the best thing you can do for your garden is to put down a thick layer of mulch of whatever variety you like. I prefer a triple shred hardwood mulch in a natural color (put simply, without dyes), but go with what works for your aesthetic. A triple-shred hardwood mulch breaks down quicker, but that provides good nutrition for your plants and soil. A less shredded mulch may last longer because it may not break down as quickly. Other than the aesthetic qualities a nice layer of mulch adds to the garden, it reduces moisture loss, provides nutrition, helps suppress weeds, and provides winter protection for shrubs and hardy perennials to protect from hard freezes and temperature fluctuations. Mulch is a gardener's best friend.
Shrubs, perennials, and trees can (should) be fertilized in the very late winter or early spring and may be fertilized in fall (October or November) before dormancy with a fertilizer containing sufficient amounts of nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P), and potassium (K), sometimes called collectively NPK. I am careful in my area not to fertilize too soon as I don't want to push a lot of growth and have it damaged by late frosts or hard freezes.
I prefer an organic fertilizer for anything that is placed directly in the ground in my garden. Organic fertilizers feed the soil and the plant and break down slowly over time which doesn't result in a surge of delicate growth that can be damaged easily by freezing temperatures. Inorganic fertilizers typically have a higher NPK value and can, in some instances, cause a surge in growth because they are intended to provide nutrients fast.
As a general recommendation use what you can find cheaply. I prefer Espoma Holly Tone as a general-purpose fertilizer for my landscape. Just a caveat, I have a higher alkaline soil with a higher pH. Because of this, I use Holly Tone throughout my garden which contains some acidity to help bring down my soil pH and make all of my plants a little happier. If you live in an area that has more acidic soil, you may use a general-purpose fertilizer, such as Plant Tone, or any other organic fertilizer recommended for general use. I always recommend conducting a soil test so you can know more about your own soil before applying fertilizers.
Pro Tip: I prefer to go to Home Depot in late October or early November in my area and pick up organic fertilizer for the next year. Organic fertilizers tend to be heavily discounted in the fall and you can get large bags for several dollars and almost 80-90% off in some instances. I buy whatever there is, even if it is labeled for a specific plant type (e.g., "vegetables", "tomatoes", "herbs"). Rarely are the differences in "variety specific" organic fertilizers enough to make a difference in your garden in my own experience and it's better to add something you found on sale than nothing at all. Use your own judgment based on what you find. Organic and inorganic fertlizers both store very well for long periods of time if kept dry and away from temperature extremes.
Lawns are typically fertilized 4-5 times per season and while the specifics of lawn fertilizing can get complicated (if you're new to it), you generally want about one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn. I try to fertilize around the major holidays just to keep a somewhat even schedule and to avoid fertilizing in the heat of August - Easter, Memorial Day, July 4th, Labor Day, and Halloween. Just follow the directions listed on the bag and it will indicate the appropriate amount to apply to reach the necessary nutrient levels. If you fertilize less you'll get less growth and if you fertilize more, you may regret it with more frequent mowings. Fertilizers that have a higher iron value, help make your lawn that dark green or "blue" color that everyone loves.
I prefer an organic fertilizer for anything that is placed directly in the ground in my garden. Organic fertilizers feed the soil and the plant and break down slowly over time which doesn't result in a surge of delicate growth that can be damaged easily by freezing temperatures. Inorganic fertilizers typically have a higher NPK value and can, in some instances, cause a surge in growth because they are intended to provide nutrients fast.
As a general recommendation use what you can find cheaply. I prefer Espoma Holly Tone as a general-purpose fertilizer for my landscape. Just a caveat, I have a higher alkaline soil with a higher pH. Because of this, I use Holly Tone throughout my garden which contains some acidity to help bring down my soil pH and make all of my plants a little happier. If you live in an area that has more acidic soil, you may use a general-purpose fertilizer, such as Plant Tone, or any other organic fertilizer recommended for general use. I always recommend conducting a soil test so you can know more about your own soil before applying fertilizers.
Pro Tip: I prefer to go to Home Depot in late October or early November in my area and pick up organic fertilizer for the next year. Organic fertilizers tend to be heavily discounted in the fall and you can get large bags for several dollars and almost 80-90% off in some instances. I buy whatever there is, even if it is labeled for a specific plant type (e.g., "vegetables", "tomatoes", "herbs"). Rarely are the differences in "variety specific" organic fertilizers enough to make a difference in your garden in my own experience and it's better to add something you found on sale than nothing at all. Use your own judgment based on what you find. Organic and inorganic fertlizers both store very well for long periods of time if kept dry and away from temperature extremes.
Lawns are typically fertilized 4-5 times per season and while the specifics of lawn fertilizing can get complicated (if you're new to it), you generally want about one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn. I try to fertilize around the major holidays just to keep a somewhat even schedule and to avoid fertilizing in the heat of August - Easter, Memorial Day, July 4th, Labor Day, and Halloween. Just follow the directions listed on the bag and it will indicate the appropriate amount to apply to reach the necessary nutrient levels. If you fertilize less you'll get less growth and if you fertilize more, you may regret it with more frequent mowings. Fertilizers that have a higher iron value, help make your lawn that dark green or "blue" color that everyone loves.
Pruning is also many gardeners least favorite task. But, pruning is essential for maintaining your landscape, keeping the perfect form for trees and shrubs, and removing dead, damaged, and diseased foliage and branches from your garden.
There are a few general guidelines to pruning. Flowering shrubs and trees can be pruned after flowering. However, you should also know what you are pruning. Certain varieties and species are not intended to be pruned or it can affect their overall natural shape. For example, many ninebarks (physocarpus) grow in a beautiful vase or natural arching habit. Pruning them - even once - can negatively affect that habit.
Always plant varieties that fit in the location you are putting them to prevent unnecessary pruning. You should also know whether the variety blooms on old wood, new wood, or both as pruning can affect the plant's bloom in the subsequent season depending on when it is trimmed. If you've inherited someone else's garden, find out what varieties are in that garden the best you can or watch them for a year before undertaking any pruning efforts. If it's your own garden, it's equally important to know what variety you are pruning and how it will respond to pruning.
Non-flowing trees and shrubs should be pruned when they are dormant. This time period is typically late fall or late winter, but you can prune these species anytime during the year. Note that pruning in summer may cause stress on the plant, and pruning in winter when the wood is frozen can cause severe damage. Evergreens can be pruned after the new soft growth has flushed out in late spring or early summer.
Always prune - no matter the variety type - to remove dead, damaged, or diseased limbs, branches, or foliage. If you are removing healthy branches in regular pruning, feel free to shred that and add them to compost to break down and keep those nutrients in your garden. However, if you are removing anything that appears diseased or has pests, dispose of it in the trash or by burning it.
There are a few general guidelines to pruning. Flowering shrubs and trees can be pruned after flowering. However, you should also know what you are pruning. Certain varieties and species are not intended to be pruned or it can affect their overall natural shape. For example, many ninebarks (physocarpus) grow in a beautiful vase or natural arching habit. Pruning them - even once - can negatively affect that habit.
Always plant varieties that fit in the location you are putting them to prevent unnecessary pruning. You should also know whether the variety blooms on old wood, new wood, or both as pruning can affect the plant's bloom in the subsequent season depending on when it is trimmed. If you've inherited someone else's garden, find out what varieties are in that garden the best you can or watch them for a year before undertaking any pruning efforts. If it's your own garden, it's equally important to know what variety you are pruning and how it will respond to pruning.
Non-flowing trees and shrubs should be pruned when they are dormant. This time period is typically late fall or late winter, but you can prune these species anytime during the year. Note that pruning in summer may cause stress on the plant, and pruning in winter when the wood is frozen can cause severe damage. Evergreens can be pruned after the new soft growth has flushed out in late spring or early summer.
Always prune - no matter the variety type - to remove dead, damaged, or diseased limbs, branches, or foliage. If you are removing healthy branches in regular pruning, feel free to shred that and add them to compost to break down and keep those nutrients in your garden. However, if you are removing anything that appears diseased or has pests, dispose of it in the trash or by burning it.
What is a weed? Generically, anything you don't want in your garden is a weed. Removal of weeds is an important part of gardening. Weeds can be prolific and are typically vigorous growers. As a result, they can starve your beloved garden plants from resources like water and nutrition. Depending on how quickly they grow and how often they are removed, they can even cast shade and crowd our desirable plants. My preferred method of weed control is a heavy layer of mulch. That is by far the best method I have found to control weeds. Do I still have weeds? Absolutely! Hand pulling is my next option for those that escape the thick mulch bed.
There are also "pre-emergent" and "post-emergent" chemicals to control weed growth, both organic and inorganic. Pre-emergents stop weed seeds from germinating or kill the seedling before it can progress to other growth stages. For example, Preen is a chemical pre-emergent, and corn gluten meal can be used as an organic pre-emergent. Post-emergents kill weeds after the seedling germinates and when the weed is an "adult" plant. There are selective and non-selective post-emergents. Selective post-emergents target a particular weed or a variety of different weeds (for example 2,4-D; quinclorac; dicamba; etc). Non-selective post-emergents kill everything it touches (for example, glyphosate or the marketing term Round-Up). There are organic selective post-emergents that contain a specific variety of iron that claims to kill weeds, but I have not found them very effective. Some organic methods of non-selective post-emergents are very effective at killing most everything it touches depending on the concentration. Those formulations typically are made up of a variety of acids that burn the plant chemically, albeit organically. If you choose a chemical method of control always read the label carefully, regardless of whether the product is organic or not. Even organic products can be damaging to the body if property personal protective equipment (PPE) is not used.
There are also "pre-emergent" and "post-emergent" chemicals to control weed growth, both organic and inorganic. Pre-emergents stop weed seeds from germinating or kill the seedling before it can progress to other growth stages. For example, Preen is a chemical pre-emergent, and corn gluten meal can be used as an organic pre-emergent. Post-emergents kill weeds after the seedling germinates and when the weed is an "adult" plant. There are selective and non-selective post-emergents. Selective post-emergents target a particular weed or a variety of different weeds (for example 2,4-D; quinclorac; dicamba; etc). Non-selective post-emergents kill everything it touches (for example, glyphosate or the marketing term Round-Up). There are organic selective post-emergents that contain a specific variety of iron that claims to kill weeds, but I have not found them very effective. Some organic methods of non-selective post-emergents are very effective at killing most everything it touches depending on the concentration. Those formulations typically are made up of a variety of acids that burn the plant chemically, albeit organically. If you choose a chemical method of control always read the label carefully, regardless of whether the product is organic or not. Even organic products can be damaging to the body if property personal protective equipment (PPE) is not used.
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